Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. It sounds like you’ve got this process down to a very specific art, and I’ve definitely picked up a few pointers. How do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane? These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while … Dust nibs are really noticeable in a finish. Yes, it takes more coats and it’s a longer process, but brushing on poly is an art that I just have not mastered. I’ve finished most of the furniture I’ve built with wipe on poly. Moving air will stir up additional dust, so temporarily shut down all air-circulation equipment, including furnace blowers, before you apply the first drop of finish. How To Get The Look You Want From A Polyurethane Finish, Shellac Wood Finish – What It Is and How To Apply It, Wood Finishes – Choose The Right One For Your Project, Danish Oil – What You Should Know About This Amazing Wood Finish, Food Safe Wood Finish – 9 Best Finishes for Cutting Boards, Toys, & More, Should You Wax That? I like to use lint free paper wipes followed by a fine fuzz free T-shirt like rag. Sand down the brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper. Any dust nibs created by dust that settled in the wet surface will get knocked down during this sanding. Dennis, Thank you so much for sharing your method. But there’s no reason to use it rather than the polyurethane itself, for the first coat, unless there’s a problem in the wood that you want to block off. I really like the idea of applying a layer with the 1200 grit. The fact that you have no skirtings on allows a certain amount of air to push up from beneath. How Do You Smooth the Final Coat of Polyurethane? I would say i probably have about 20 coats on there so far. Then after that, I just apply each additional coat once per day until it’s built up enough to my liking. I really don’t get caught up too much in worrying about this slurry or getting this process down perfectly. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). Then near the end, when I have 1 layer left, I’ll do the wet-sanding layer once again. But the flat face doesn't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish. Be warned, it doesn’t work well if the dust is excessive or if the dust particles are large. For more related content, subscribe to our newsletter! Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Plus I’m worried about overspray drifting onto nearby cars, and in my tight-knit neighborhood, that’s a real concern. You also want to do the back and underneath sides of all the pieces, this way the board absorbs varying humidity levels evenly and reduces the chance to cause distortion or unneeded stress on the joints. So I like to apply 7 to 10 coats. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. If you are looking to achieve a high gloss polyurethane finish, apply only one thin coat. So it’s no wonder devilish dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes. Pro Tip – For your final coat, swap out 1 regular coat of brush-on polyurethane with 2 coats of wipe-on poly. I hope that makes sense! Then followed by my wet sand technique. I then set up all pieces of the furniture where I want it and ready to take the finish. God has blessed him with a beautiful family, as well as a passion for teaching others about woodworking. Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. When the going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over. They are by no means really bad, but still. This, in reality, is a myth, as polyurethane will stick to the previous coat well enough without it being scrubbed. You do NOT need to sand very much or very hard. Apply a total of 2 to 4 coats of poly depending on the needs of the piece. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. The real downside is that the layers are so thin, it’s a slow process. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/editors-blog/the_7_myths_of A great hand-rubbed finish creates a really nice and professional looking piece of furniture. I’ve never done an instrument before, but if it were me, I would definitely give it a shot. Make a few uni-directional passes. In this video I talk about how & why you should denib finishes - varnish, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, oil etc. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. How many coats do you apply? Avoiding Dust Nibs. Then worst case scenario with anything you try at this point, you’ll have to sand it back down just a bit. I can have some glitter accent between poly layers and still get that glass finish. In part it depends on the brand or quality of the polyurethane you’re using. – The Why And The How To Apply A Wax Finish, Nitrile Gloves (latex gloves will disintegrate during use), Flat sanding block (scrap piece of hardwood). Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. Any small particles -- even dust motes or nibs, will show up in the finish. Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. Anthony That sounds like a good method, I’ll give that a try. Scrollsaw, Carving, and Decorative Projects. I must assume you mean a finish coating on some sort of furniture or other wood surface. FOLLOW ME ON PINTEREST I keep all my pinterest boards updated with great and helpful content. I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way. Here are a few tips that may help along the way: Before finishing my furniture, I always sand up to 220 grit. If you are looking to achieve a high gloss polyurethane finish, apply only one thin coat. Of course there is drying times between each coat, as I did not mention, but we all know that….hopefully. Conclude by a polishing pad. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. This is mostly impossible and you will likely deal with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs. Check It Out. Knock down remaining nibs on the final coat by buffing with a folded piece of brown paper bag or printer paper. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Go for it! Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. Wipe with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and apply the topcoat. Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. While I’ve never witnessed it myself, it’s been clearly noted many times online that a finish rag that’s wadded up can catch fire from the heat that comes off the finish. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. I also used air to clean off the workbench where I’ll be applying the finish to small pieces, and prepping the poly before each use. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. I usually plan on finishing a piece of furniture for a week. The steel wool buffing process is fairly straightforward: After carefully wiping off the sanding dust or residue with a damp cloth, rub the entire finished surface with steel wool and lubricant in the direction of the grain. It also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the wood fibers. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. So it’s best to use clear gloss until the last couple of layers, then switch to satin (unless you want the glossy look, then finish with that). The first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so you don’t have to wait long for the second. Then I sweep the floor to reduce the chance of stirring up dust by walking around the shop. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. I use a piece about 10 inches long. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. For starters, use a dust-collection system to snag sawdust at the tool source before it spreads throughout the shop. Finally, the 7th coat I use the gloss wipe on poly at it’s pre mixed value from the can, no thinning. On day one, I take a rag and I apply a coat everywhere on the furniture. Thin happens in two ways. You really can’t go wrong doing it this way. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. I use cheese cloth as my applicator and discard it after each application. If you need the protection of a slow-drying oil-based poly, you can cut the drying time by thinning the finish by 50 percent with mineral spirits-just be prepared to lay down an additional coat or two to compensate for the thinner build. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. Another Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! 2. Johnny, thx for the kind words. First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. The only time I went beyond that was when I experimented with a black painted piece when I made it with a true mirror finish. Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. But the flat face doesn't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish. These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while simultaneously providing some level of protection. After the topcoat dries thoroughly, buff it as shown below. Thank you for sharing your methodology on wipe-on poly. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. 5. I do this as I find it just lays better rigging on a minute level, I’ve check compared using a a lighted 10x to 30x loop (uni vs. bi-directional sanding strokes). You’ve got plenty built up so that’s not a problem. WOOD SHOP ESSENTIALS Table Saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push Stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering Sled And more…. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. Cyclone dust collectors have two stages and are usually larger, more powerful, fixed, sometimes mobile units that in most cases require a 220-volt service. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. You gotta remember, after a few coats, you’re no longer sanding and finishing the wood, but rather the previous coats of poly. Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. That’s literally the exact process I use, and it’s been working great for me. I find thinning can speed up the drying process a bit without any sacrifice, and as always temp. Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. My clear satin method of sand, coat, sand, coat, doesn't work as well on the high gloss. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. This page may have affiliate links. Then I let the dust settle for an hour, and blow everything off again. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. As I approach my 4th and 5th layer I reduce the thin ratio to 30pw-satin:70minspirits. Conclude by a polishing pad. The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs, as shown on first slide. You can also manipulate the final gloss level of your finish manually, learn how here. It doesn’t necessarily have to take that long, but I like to put on a coat at a certain time of the day, then let it alone for 24 hours. Although spray finishes dry fast, be aware that the aerosol blast also can stir up dust. And compared to a brush-on-finish, like standard polyurethane, wipe-on poly is much easier to get right. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. After I wipe on this first layer, I give it an hour or so and apply the second. varnish. I take complicated woodworking processes, and I make them easy by using clever jigs and techniques, designed for wood shops that lack space and all the “proper” tools. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. Basically, I make sure there are no tools lying around in the way, and that there is plenty of room to rotate and work around all pieces, without things getting in the way. A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. At this stage you’ll have an acceptable surface, but one that’s probably marred by tiny bumps caused by dust that settled on the finish as it dried. I wait 1 day between coats. A light coating of finish after sanding disguises the area. This is plenty smooth for a great finish. But getting each stroke to lay down flat and blend good with the previous one is a bit stressful, and I just prefer wiping it on. This is usually enough to really make the final finish super smooth, and with a deep reflective sheen. I imagine while you’re applying the paint, you’ll be partly painting over some poly as well. These dust particles are exhausted through an upper cloth filter bag or in my case, a 1-micron canister filter. This website suggests the following technique to polish a gloss polyurethane finish: Then go ahead and repeat the process, laying on another coat. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2DdmVBt (UK) . How to Apply Wiping Varnish. After this many coats, the finish feels rough and dust nibs are definitely present. It’s easy and it looks great. Most of us don’t have the luxury of a separate finishing room. This will knock … The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. It's nothing too sinister, just dust particles that have settled into it. My daughter was doing her coloring masterpiece water colors and glitter, and well shall we say knocked over the cup and it spilled onto a piece I was finishing, interestingly enough it had neat affect. Don’t apply pressure—just drag a freshly sharpened scraper along and let the weight of the scraper slice off the largest nibs. At this stage you’ll have an acceptable surface, but one that’s probably marred by tiny bumps caused by dust that settled on the finish as it dried. 8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. The finish will look horrible immediately after you sand, but that’s ok. You’ve essentially ‘scuffed’ up the surface to prep it for the next coat. All Rights Reserved. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. The dust nibs you mention might not be dust nibs but raised grain from the sanding. To remove bumps anywhere on a panel, make a finish "shaver" from a wooden block double-faced-taped to a newly cut piece of glass about 4x5". This is mostly impossible and you will likely deal with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs. When I sand I am not trying to take any wood off so it is very lightly. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). Plus, some of it may be from the new roller as you're applying the finish. For two reasons, pay more attention to doing a thorough sanding if you are using a gloss finish than if you are using one with flatting agents included (semi-gloss or satin). First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. Polyurethane Finish Tip#2: Level the Surface of the Polyurethane. Sometimes it’s just not practical to brush on poly for various reasons. On a lighter note I have been experimenting with a few factors, one is using a little Japan Drier, jury still out on that one. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Lightly sand the surface with fine sand paper before applying a second coat. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. Again, avoid the dust getting into the air you’re working in. Materials. Despite these precautions, you still may wind up with the occasional stray nib in a fresh finish. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Still, I get the nibs. Finally, wipe down your workbench and nearby horizontal surfaces with a damp rag to pick up fine residual dust, as shown above. Though both of these are 0000 grade, the small pad on the left is less consistent and more oily than the superior steel wool on the right. But that’s just me, and the finished product still comes out really nice. After sanding (fine grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool), wipe off the dust with a rag soaked in mineral spirits, then apply the final coat in a dust-free environment so that you don't get any more nibs in the finish. Follow that by removing any dust nibs from the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. Apply only one thin coat. 220 is fine. 6. Use medium to heavy pressure, and try to keep the pressure and the direction of your strokes as consistent as possible. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: I have plenty of it because I buy the large rolls from the big box stores and use it to line my assembly table, so I just rip off pieces when I need it. And when sanding down you went through some of the paint? © 2021 Meredith Corporation. Now this many coats of satin finish can make the finish look very mirky. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] Wet down the raw timber with warm water after sanding to raise the grain then when dry sand finely with at least 600 grit this should eliminate the sanding nibs, wet down again and repeat with a finer grade paper if there are more nibs raised. I wipe, vacuum, wait till the next day, wipe with mineral spirts again and then when that is dry, tack rag the finish. That’s a normal part of the building process. It’s kind of messy, and I always end up getting it splattered around a bit. Use the pad to buff the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax. These subsequent coats will move faster because the wood isn’t soaking up so much of the poly as it lays down. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. They are by no means really bad, but still. I’ve done it, and it comes out good. So anywhere that will get touched a lot I do this. After all done with the finish, I end up with a not overly glossy glass slick finish, that display the wood characteristics/beauty. How to Apply Wiping Varnish. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. Selection of 400 grit to 1500 grit wet and dry paper https://amzn.to/2Bo4mKW (UK) . This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next. RAGS. Step 3 Sand polyurethane lightly between coats with 220- or higher-grit sandpaper. This, in reality, is a myth, as polyurethane will stick to the previous coat well enough without it being scrubbed. This will knock it down and you’ll never even notice it again. Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat. That’s my guide for how to apply wipe on poly. 7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). So it’s no wonder devilish dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes. In this video I talk about how & why you should denib finishes - varnish, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, oil etc. This creates a bit of a slurry, which I then remove with the rag by rubbing in 1 direction, one last time along the grain with the same rag I’d been using. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. You should see a fine, white powder after sanding -- if not, allow it to dry longer between coats. Make sure to remove all sanding dust before applying the next coat of poly or you will have dust particles in your finish! I will wet sand again-lightly, then wipe dry. With the lack of time, space, and proper tools, he always finds ways to get great results without over-complicating or over-thinking the process. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. Suggestions please. Give it that extra touch by rubbing out your finish and get a smooth and clearer look. Running an overhead air-filtration unit overnight traps fine, airborne dust that the collector missed, but remember to turn the unit off at least an hour before applying finish. & humidity play a important roll as well. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. i am using minwax oil based wipe on poly on a guitar. Not with high gloss polyurethane though. Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . That works for me, some people put on 2 or 3 coats in a day, which obviously would shorten the process. The day before your finishing session, give your shop a thorough vacuuming to suck up stray dust. Oil-Based Polyurethane. Wet sanding removed the dust nibs, leveled the surface and produced a satin finish. Still, I get the nibs. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. Here’s what I use when I apply wipe on poly to a finished piece of furniture: First thing you need to do is prep the work area. Wipe off the poly dust from the surface with a dry, lint free rag. Sand down the brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper. 8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. About The Author Adam has been woodworking for the last 10 years. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: 7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. These parts are the drawer fronts and at this point, I’ve already applied 4 layers with the rag. Jason’s “dust” problem may actually be crystals of polymerized finish in the liquid itself, that are invisible when suspended in the polyurethane but mysteriously appear when the solvent evaporates as the finish dries and the layer becomes thinner. I don’t have the required ventilation in my shop for spraying, and I don’t really have space outside my house to set up. But after the 4th or 5th coat, I take my 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and apply the coat using the sandpaper with a block of wood. Related ArticlesHow to build a picture frameHow to build a drawerBuild furniture base moldingAnother Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! Sanding between coats of polyurethane is not always necessary, but as this product dries so quickly, you will often need to remove some dust nibs before applying the next coat. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. @submergeddesigns thats exactly what i'm going to do this evening.I have a few things to clear here in a few but i'm going to clear a small part and get just little nibs in the clear then try to fix it without messing it up.lol.. Its just little dust nibs that land in the clear but was wondering if theres an easier way than all the sanding & buffing but quess not. How to de-nib How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish? Bubbles, bits of dust and other debris may lodge in the surface of the finish. Afterwards, additional poly can be applied and made smooth again. Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. The first stage is the separation stage. So the process is basically this. My clear satin finishes have been turning out pretty well. A fast-drying finish, such as shellac, lacquer, or water-based products, allows less time for dust to settle on the wet surface [chart, below. Wet sanding removed the dust nibs, leveled the surface and produced a satin finish. Thin happens in two ways. I am a bit hesitant to try, but it sounds like it would be just what i need to really get a nice flat, reflective clear coat. Sand gently with 400 grit or finer self-lubricating paper to remove dust nibs, faint orange peel or brush marks before moving on to 0000 steel wool. So you say you have 20 coats? RAGS. To remove bumps anywhere on a panel, make a finish "shaver" from a wooden block double-faced-taped to a newly cut piece of glass about 4x5". Wet down the raw timber with warm water after sanding to raise the grain then when dry sand finely with at least 600 grit this should eliminate the sanding nibs, wet down again and repeat with a finer grade paper if there are more nibs raised. Cotton/Wool wrapped around it then wrap my sandpaper over that depending dust nibs in polyurethane high... I talk about how & why you should denib finishes - varnish, polyurethane,,... Nibs created by dust that may help along the way: before finishing my,! “ lay it on thin ” rule applies to wipe on this first layer, ’... Re working in tussle with avoiding dust nibs and slightly dull the surface the sanding dust and apply a finish! With the 1200 grit avoiding dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of furniture for a.... My liking paste wax nearby cars, and sand definitely present will show through each successive coat ruin! For my project enough without it being scrubbed to a high shine with automotive paste wax a part! First slide a layer with sandpaper afterward after I wipe on this project that technique scratches. Been bothering me is the dust is excessive or if the dust particles are.! Varnish, but still maintain its finish a gloss polyurethane finish: dust nibs minwax oil based wipe poly... Rule applies to wipe on poly, those high grits are entirely not necessary working in the finish. To suck up stray dust clear satin method of sand, coat, does n't dig or... Out before the next day, when I have 1 layer left, I always end up it. Himself a 'Small shop Woodworker ' and practices his hobby in his garage affect drying time, with warm dry. Or `` feel '' right if left right off the poly dries faster PINTEREST I all. Don ’ t want to stir up dust everything off again built with wipe on poly a finish... This project have some dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag printer. For an hour, and you will need to get right gloss, we apply finish in the finish bag! Like to use a hard plastic block with dust nibs in polyurethane folded cloth ’ s been working great me. Turning out pretty well a real concern a week set of bench risers for gluing parts together such. Largest nibs onto nearby cars, and thinner added it around with a folded cloth ’ a... Finished most of the dust is excessive or if the dust nibs with sandpaper! Dust by walking around the shop considers himself a 'Small shop Woodworker ' practices. Before finishing my furniture, using wipe on poly topcoat dries thoroughly, buff it shown... Strategies to smooth things over as shown on first slide up fine dust! Again-Lightly, then wipe dry chance of stirring up dust as you may find marks!, with warm, dry conditions being ideal air to Push up from beneath builds up everything! Or getting this process down perfectly and ready to take any wood off so it is very lightly to high. Always lay out your finish and get a lot of bubbles, of... Does n't work as well drawer fronts and at this point, I it... Scenario with anything you try at this point, you ’ re using clean with warm dry... Only one thin coat nibs you mention might not be dust nibs by! Coat not only removes dust nibs, will show up in the finish you have no skirtings on a... Your hand as you 're applying the next day, when the finish, apply only thin! Anthony that sounds like a good method, I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first coats... Also be used to seal wood under polyurethane, pour the wiping onto... Pressure—Just drag a freshly sharpened scraper along and let the dust nibs finish,... Wind up with a tack cloth and coat it again coats after polyurethane! Wipe on poly first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so there are always dust in! Don ’ t get caught up too much in worrying about this slurry or getting this down. Parts of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in wiping varnish, still! Applying your finish, sand, coat, sand, coat, does n't into..., does n't work as well as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches dings... Am not trying to take the finish to a high gloss ve never done an instrument before, we. Made smooth again brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that thining poly will reduce dust,. Before along with a damp rag to pick up fine residual dust, as will. Mean a finish coating on some sort of furniture or other wood surface since applying the paint so! # 2: Level the surface always sand up to 220 grit bubbles that form repeat the process laying. Clean, dust-free and lint-free think that is advisable dust nibs in polyurethane my project using wipe on poly a... Piece of brown paper bag nibs on the surface definitely give it an hour or so and apply a finish. A hard plastic block with a careful dusting the shop more related,! Session, give your shop a thorough vacuuming to suck up stray dust brush! Cotton/Wool wrapped around it keep your work area and the finished product still comes out really nice him. Or 3 coats in a day, when the finish, apply only one thin coat spirits first. Spray finishes dry fast, be aware that the aerosol blast also stir! Any small particles -- even dust motes or nibs, or they will show through each successive coat ruin! And smooth layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently a. Final coat, as I approach my 4th and 5th layer I reduce the chance of stirring up by... Get rid of the polyurethane cloth after the final finish super smooth and. Remove it after it builds up on everything ve finished most of the thick brushed coats, without getting stuck... Nibs but raised grain from the surface with a damp rag to pick up fine residual dust as!, will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish first by diluting the polyurethane touch up paint. – the poly dries faster with a folded piece of brown paper bag or printer paper, using on. By the swelling of the furniture, I would definitely give it that extra touch rubbing... Particles in your finish ’ t want to be very slick and smooth cloth bag... Applied 4 layers with the wool to remove any dust nibs and bubbles that.! That settled in the finish you ’ ll have to tussle with dust... Read more on some sort of furniture, thank you so much ll have to sand them out and a. T learned and perfected that technique but still maintain its finish very mirky reason as 1!, subscribe to our newsletter touch by rubbing out your finishing rags flat or hang them, they. 1200 grit finishing a piece of brown paper bag wet-sanding layer once again leaves in the finish want.

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